Stewie

We go through life meeting thousands of people. Some of them become friends for life. Some of them become friends for a while. Most of them are just a fleeting moment. And some become a lasting impression, a lasting memory. Stewie the kayaker if one of these people.

Cape Tribulation coastline

I met Stewie during a trip to Cairns with some friends. We had taken a day trip to Cape Tribulation to do some sea kayaking off the coast. Cape Tribulation is about a 3 hour drive north of Cairns, home of the Daintree Rainforest. It's a gorgeous, quiet, natural place of beauty and tranquility. The various accomodation on offer there - whether its a hostel, B&B or a resort - are all nestled in the rainforest and blends into the natural landscape. You can spend your days trekking and exploring the rainforest under its canopy of trees or you can hike a short distance through the rainforest to reach the coastline and enjoy a quiet relaxing day on an almost desserted beach. I was only there for a day but would love to one day go back and stay a few days in Cape Tribulation and explore more of it. 

We had set off early in the morning from Cairns and drove up to Cape Tribulation. Arriving there, we wait at a hostel where we are to meet our guide for our sea kayaking session. Soon a minivan turns into the driveway and out jumps our guide. He's fairly average in height and build, with an all year round tan wearing a relaxed outfit of boardies and a t-shirt. Our guide introduces himself to us. His name is Stewie and he's got a friendly and easygoing demeanor. Stewie ushers us into the minivan and off we set. During the drive through the rainforest to our kayaking location, Stewie tells us about the history and ecology of the area. I remember him telling us about the native free-roaming boars in the area. If you ever come across one, be very careful and don't make sudden movements. If the boar decides to come after you, run for your life!! Or get to higher ground as these guys are fast and strong, and if they catch up to you, you're sure to have your stomach torn out by their tusks. Hmmm OK, so I don't want to get out of the minivan now.

Soon Stewie turns off the main and only road in the rainforest and drives through the trees into a clearing. We are then lead through the rainforest to the beach where the kayaks are. During this walk, Stewie tells us about his morning kayak.

'Sometimes when I'm walking through this area, I come across a crocodile. That's when you need to be careful and quiet.'
Ummm ok. Keeping my eye out for crocs now.
'We're actually near the location where Steve Urwin was snorkling and got stabbed by the Manta Ray. I haven't really seen any Manta Rays recently so we should be pretty safe,' Stewie continues.
Right. Try not to fall out of the kayak.
'I did see a shark earlier today when I went out for a morning kayak. But they're small and pretty harmless.'
Definitely do not fall out of the kayak.
'I also saw some Cassowaries this morning, which are native to this area. So we should be able to spot some this afternoon during our session. It'll be awesome!' Stewie concludes as we arrive at the beach.

On the beach, we see an array of kayaks set up. This is basically where Stewie stores his kayaks. No sheds, no chains and padlock, because who's going to steal them? Before we start kayaking, we go through a short training session on how to paddle and safety instructions. This is when I notice a strange characteristic. As Stewie goes through the procedures, I notice that he's winking. Alot. Is he flirting? Is there something in his eye. As I listen and ponder, I notice that both eyes are doing it. Ohhhh he's got crazy eyes!! My first encounter. I look at my girlfriend and notice that she's noticed it too. It starts to become distracting as his eyes constantly twitch and wink. We practice using the paddles in the air as Stewie corrects our technique and soon we're ready to go to sea!

We pick up our paddles and in pairs carry out 2 kayaks. As we approach the water, Stewie calls for us to stop where we are, drops the kayak and runs out ahead. We're not exactly sure what's going on, but soon he comes back and explains he though he saw a shadow of a Manta Ray up ahead on the sand banks and ran to double check. Luckily, he was mistaken. Phew.

In a short time we've launched ourselves onto the water and start paddling around the coastline. I'm paired up with my friend K and my girl friend L is kayaking with Stewie. K and I have trouble paddling in sync with each other. I still blame it on K's sad attempt to paddle in time with me as I was sitting in front and could not see him, while he's at the back and should be stroking in time with me. We constantly drifted out to sea and had to paddle hard to get back towards the coastline. At the time, it was frustrating, but looking back now, it was pretty funny.

The native Cassowaries getting friendly

L and Stewie had a pretty good laugh about it. While K and I were struggling with our kayaking, Stewie was telling L about how excited he was that we'll be able to spot some Cassowaries, pointing out locations of where he had seen them recently. So we kept our eye out for these native birds.

The kayaking session lasted 2 hours. During this time, we spotted an eagle or hawk perched on a rotted tree trunk on top of a cliff with what looked like a snake dangling from its beak. We were probably 100 to 200 metres away and even from that distance the bird was measuring at 30cm tall, so imagine how big it would be up close! It was pretty amazing to see a Bird of Prey in its natural habitat. As we paddled back towards the beach, there was still no Cassowary in sight. Stewie was still optimistic. 'We'll see one soon guys! I just know it!'

Eventually, the kayaking session ends and we paddle back onto the beach. Later on, L tells me that as they neared the sand. She had heard Stewie mutter, 'Stupid bird.' The poor guy was so disappointed that we didn't get to see any Cassowaries. We jump out into the water, and drag the kayaks back onto land and store it back with all the other kayaks.

When we first walked out to the beach, we were all keeping our feet as clean as we could in our thongs. But after having been in the water and getting wet, we happily trampled back through the rainforest to the minivan barefooted. As we squelched our way through the mud, Stewie turns around and looks at L and I and comments, 'It's pretty sexual isn't it?'  I didn't know what to say. I was a little confused about what he was refering to. However L replied, ' I guess the mud is getting in between our toes and stuff but I wouldn't say it felt sexual.' Ohhh he's talking about the mud. What?

We get back to the clearing and K announces that he needs to pee. Stewie decides he needs to as well and they both head into the bush. I yell out, 'Remember, more than 3 shakes is a wank,' to which Stewie replies, 'If I need a wank, I'll let you know!'

Stewie with a freshly hacked coconut

Coming back from his toilet break, Stewie points out a make shift shower hose where we can clean our feet and legs from the mud we trampled through. He then points at a pile of coconuts and ask if we want to drink and eat any. Awesome! Fresh coconut off a tree. Of course we want some!

Out of no where, Stewie pulls out a machete and starts hacking at a coconut. What the funk?!?! Where the hell did that machete come from? Should we be worried. L and I give each other a puzzled look. Stewie hacks off the top of a coconut and hands it to us to try. It's delicious!! We finish off the coconut - juice and flesh - and after a few minutes rest, get ushered back into the minivan.

On the drive back onto the main road, Stewie stops outside of a steel shed, turns around and asks, 'Do you want some abos?' and then jumps out of the van and runs off.

The three of us look at each other confused. Did he just say he was getting some abos? What? That's what he said right. Did you hear abo as well?

After a few minutes, Stewie climbs back into the driver seat with a handful of Avocados. Ohhhhhhhhh he said Avos!!! Short for Avocados!

During the short drive back to the hostel where we met Stewie, he tells us about how he would go to Port Douglas and drop into the Hostels there and look for volunteers to go on a paddling trip with him on his outrigger from Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation. He tells us of how he'll convince drunken backpackers on a Friday night to head out with him. In their inebriated state, these volunteers think its a marvellous idea! They would head out in the evening and start paddling to Cape Tribulation in their drunken state. It takes a good part of the day to paddle the distance and as these volunteers start to sober up, they realise the painful decision they've made, and being in the middle of the ocean, they have no choice but to keep paddling.

We arrive back at the hostel and bid farewell to our very interesting and memorable kayak guide. Stewie is definitely a character and he was the highlight of our trip in Cairns. When I go back Cairns and Cape Tribulation, I would love to look him up and do another kayaking trip with him.

I would also recommend him to anyone who does travel to the area. Stewie works with the company Paddle Trek Cape Tribulation Sea Kayaking. Look him up on the link below. Just don't tell him I said he's got crazy eyes!

Cape Trib Paddle Trek

Note: These photos don't belong to me. Having lost any photos I have from the trip, these were found online. Yes, I did consciously choose a photo of Cassowaries mating. 

A Nomadic Night

I've done a fair bit of travelling in the past few years - most of it on my own. I thought of myself as abit of a nomad. It wasn't until I was in Marrakesh in 2009 where I got a tiny taste of a real nomadic life.

I had booked myself on an overnight trip to camp in the Sahara desert. That's right, I'm going camping in the friggin SAHARA DESERT! The tour involved a very long minibus ride to the edge of the Sahara where we stopped at various lookout points, had lunch in a small town and visited a fortified desert city called Ait Bennhadou.

Ait Bennhadou is quite a wonder to see. Imagine desert and mountain country, sand as far as the eye can see and in the middle of it runs a river where there's a fortified city surrounded by greenery. It's like seeing a mirage.

Ait Bennadou may look familiar. That's because the city has been filmed in many movies such as The Mummy, Gladiator and Alexander.

There are not many people living in this city now due to the damage and erosion of the natural elements, however there are still locals who live in the area that come to work here and try to make a living from the tourists. Wandering through the city, you'll find men working to maintain the structures and buildings; you'll see young children playing while their parents work; you experience the locals plying their trade whether it be weaving rugs and carpets, artwork, or jewellery making. It's hot, but peaceful. Everyone is quite relaxed, and unlike Marrakesh, the locals aren't aggressive and demanding attention. They approach you in a friendly matter, or if they don't, they just watch you as you pass by.

 

After a short afternoon seeing the city, we hop back into the minibus and head out to the Sahara. Once we reach the edge of the desert, we get saddled up on camels and begin our 1.5 hour camel ride to our camp ground.

Riding camels in the desert? It sounds like such a novel idea. You see it in imagery everywhere. It's kind of a cool thing to do. For the first 20 minutes. Then your buttocks start to get sore. Soon, your upper inner thighs are sore too. That's when I begin to wonder how the guys are handling it, because if I had testiculars, I would think they'd be in major pain too.

Camels - the bane of my buttocks existence..

Pushing the pain to the back of my mind, I watch the scenery go by. It was late afternoon when we started our camel ride into the desert. We had ridden through small villages where the children would follow and ask for gifts or try to make money from us. As we rode deeper into the Sahara, the sun began to drop. It was gorgeous to see the sun and moon dance around each other as the sunlight faded while the moon rose over this vast land of sand. Soon it was pitch dark with only the moon lighting our way from high above.

After long while of riding, our guides finally stop and start calling out into the desert. From not too far away, you can hear answering calls. As I looked around in the dark, I noticed small flickering lights in the distance indicating the various campsites for the night. Woohoo! We've arrived! I can get off this damn camel and be free from the pain I've endured.

We get shown to our tent, which is big enough to fit up to 15 people inside. The tents are made from strong weaves made by the locals so that it keeps the sand out during sandstorms. The floor is also covered with weaved rugs. We settle ourselves and our belongings inside the tent then join our guides outside for a pre-dinner drink.

Our guide introduces himself and his culture to us. He is a Berbere. Berbere people are indigenous to North Africa. His people and his family live and work in the Sahara. A real life nomad! They spend most months of the year travelling through the desert. Only in summer will they settle for the few months as it is too hot to travel. As he tells us about his life, he serves us some Moroccan tea, or as he calls it, 'Berbere Whiskey.' The next hour is spent talking and getting to know the others I've travelled with. Our guide starts shouting back and forth with the guys in the 'kitchen' tent where our dinner is being prepared. He calls this method of communication 'Berbere telephone'. A few of us decide to lay down and take this opportunity to stargaze. Being so far from civilisation and pollution, the sky is clear and the stars shine brightly. Out of the silent gazing, our guide advises that we are watching 'Berbere TV'. I'm noticing a pattern here.

Soon dinner arrives and we are served with various Tajines, salads and bread. A traditional Moroccan meal in the Sahara desert. It's an amazing feeling to be here and the night has only just begun.

After dinner we get ushered to a nearby sand dune where we are joined by other groups camping for the night and get treated to a song and dance jam by our Berbere guides. Traditional songs are sung to rhythms being drummed on oil cans and Moroccan castanets (hand cymbals). Soon the dancing starts and eventually everyone joins in. We learn the local dance moves by copying our entertaining guides and dance into the night. It's an amazing feeling of freedom. In this moment, all your worries melt away as you sing and dance under the moonlight.

The evening wraps up and one by one people start to drop off to sleep. Most of us take the option of sleeping outside of the tent on rugs - literally sleeping under the stars. As I lay wrapped up in my blanket watching Berbere TV, I try to plan my next few days in Morocco. I had 10 days in the country and had only booked my first 2 nights of accomodation before arriving to Marrakesh.

In the morning, I'm one of the first to wake up. Having cocooned myself in my blanket during the night, I find the bright light of dawn unforgiving and brighter than usual as the light reflects off the sand. Taking several minutes to adjust, I eventually get up and take the opportunity to explore the area around us. Still squinting and probably looking as chinese as ever, I take in the view of the open desert. It is amazing. Banks of sand as far as the eye can see, a great openness, or some may say, emptiness. There's a feeling of peacefulness about it, with a slight hint of malice.

Our tent

Morrocan castanets

Soon everyone is up and slowly we pack our things together and get ready to ride back to town. The camel ride is excruciating. I am in so much pain the whole way back and really tempted to jump off the camel and walk. After what felt like the longest passage of painful time, we meet arrive in town. Our minivan driver meets us there and soon we are in our minivan for the bumpiest, slippery, made-for-motion-sickness 10 hour drive back to Marrakesh.